Current Issue : October - December Volume : 2018 Issue Number : 4 Articles : 5 Articles
A number of approaches can be implemented to ensure plant-based material authentication\nfor cosmetic applications. Doing this requires knowledge and data dealing with botany, molecular\nbiology, and analytical chemistry, the main techniques of which are described here. A comprehensive\nand critical view of the methods is provided with comments as well as examples of their\napplication domains....
Emulsions are of great use in cosmetic formulations due to their stability. The aim of this\nwork was to develop and assess organoleptic, physicochemical, and microscopic properties of four\nauto-emulsifiable oil-in-water formulations. Such formulations were developed containing 4.0%\ncetearyl alcohol, dicetyl phosphate, and ceteth-10 phosphate (Formulation A), nano-actives obtained\nfrom safflower, coconut, and clove oils (Formulation B); a mixture of glycolic extracts from\nCentella asiatica leaves, Aesculus hippocastanum seeds, and Hamamelis virginiana leaves (Formulation C);\nassociation between the nano-actives and glycolic extracts described above (Formulation D).\nThe formulations were trialed for 90 days under the normal stability test. The developed\nformulations were considered all stable and homogeneous, with liquid crystals possibly being formed.\nOrganoleptic parameters and pH of Formulations A and B remained unchanged, but the color of\nFormulations C and D changed due to the natural color of the glycolic extracts used. It can be\nconcluded that the formation of liquid crystals increased the stability of the formulations, and future\ntests should be carried out in order to assess the rheological properties and hydration potential of the\ndeveloped formulations....
The plant-based traditional knowledge of many Cameroonian populations concerning\nbeauty and skin care is still poorly documented, yet they are real resources of innovation and\neconomic development. The aim of this study is to document the indigenous knowledge of Choa\nArab and Kotoko ethnic group in Kouss�©ri (Far North Region of Cameroon) about plants used for\ncosmetics. Ethnobotanical data collected among key informants revealed a total of 13 plants species\nbelonging to 12 families used by local people. Canarium schweinfurthii Engl and Santalum album L.\nobtained the highest frequency of citation. Trees are the most abundant life forms, while barks and\nseeds are the most frequently used parts. More than 40% of recorded plants are used for skin care.\nThe cosmetic allegations of recorded plants include: dermatology, anti-cancers, antioxidant agent,\nperfume, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, wounds healing activity, skin lightening, dental caries,\nastringent and hair care. They all contain various phytochemicals that are of interest in cosmetics.\nDespite the strong relationship between the Choa Arab and Kotoko people and herbal cosmetic\ningredients, these plants are still less investigated for their cosmetic application. The authors urge\nfor the development of sustainable supply chain for plants with potentials as cosmetics, involving\nlocal communities in the planning, implementation and monitoring process, following principles of\nNagoya protocol on Access and Benefit Sharing....
Topical sun protective cosmetics (sunscreens, pre- and post-sun) have been intensively\ndeveloped and produced to protect human skin against solar irradiation-associated damages/pathologies.\nUnfortunately, routine cosmetics for sun protection containing synthetic organic and/or physical\nsunscreens could exert adverse effects towards human organisms and bring undesirable ecological\nchanges. Terrestrial and marine plant species, being exposed to sun light for hundreds of millions of\nyears, have evolved two pro-survival strategies: effective protection against/adaptation to its deleterious\neffects and the use of solar energy for photosynthesis/photo-biochemical reactions. Secondary plant\nmetabolites (SPM) are primary sensors of solar energy and mediators of its use (photo-sensitisers)\nor neutralisation (photo-protectors). A similar double photo-protective/photo-sensitising system\nis built in within human skin. Modern development of toxicologically/ecologically safe yet\neffective sun-protective cosmetics attempts to pre-select photo-stable and non-phototoxic SPMs\nthat provide broad UVA + UVB sunscreen, free radical scavenging and direct antioxidant defence,\nendogenous antioxidant rescue, induction of antioxidant enzymes (indirect antioxidant defence),\nand normalisation of metabolic and immune responses to UVA + UVB. Proper formulation of sun\nprotective cosmetics should assure targeted delivery of photo-active SPMs to definite skin layers to\ninvigorate the built in photo-chemical skin barrier....
Topical remedies capable of protecting skin from damage and supporting its regeneration\ncan improve skin�s health as well as its appearance. Small copper peptides have an excellent safety\nrecord and are widely used in cosmetic products. The most studied copper peptide is GHK-Cu\n(glycyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine), a small copper-binding peptide, naturally present in human plasma.\nSince its discovery in 1973, in vivo and in vitro studies have shown that GHK-Cu possesses a wealth\nof health-positive actions including improving wound contraction and epithelization, and increasing\nthe production of growth factors and activity of antioxidant enzymes. Recently, gene expression\nprofiling shed new light on diverse biological actions of GHK-Cu. The present paper discusses\nevidence of GHK-Cu and other small copper peptides possessing potent anti-cancer properties....
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